Shortly after putting down in Casablanca I met Soaud, my wife, and we boarded a train to Marrakesh. About an hour into our trip we were joined by an exhausted looking Arab man.
Even in a country as European as Morocco, a white dude and a Berber girl holding hands isn’t always kosher. The man nodded at me, and said something in Arabic. Soaud explained that I was her husband — an American Muslim.
He smiled, and produced a large box of cookies. For our marriage, he said, from his family in Libya. His name was Saied and he was a refugee from Sirte, Colonel Gadaffi’s hometown and the site of his frantic and unsuccessful last stand.
Saied said I was a pretty cool guy, but the rest of America could go to hell for having a hand in the murder of Moammar. He then proceeded to expound greatly upon the wickedness of the west.
The rest of the train ride was pretty awkward.
After two days with Souad’s sister in Marrakesh we set out bound for Beni Mellal, a small town in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains.
My encounter with Saied had brought the Arab Spring to the forefront of my thoughts. When we got off the bus the first thing I noticed was the hard look I was catching. Not everyone was glaring; it just seemed to be the young men.
They stood around in knots, gathered behind fruit stands and little makeshift stalls where you can buy a pair of Italian silk socks for fifty cents or a knock off Rolex.
Beni Mellal alternated between rich looking villas and abject poverty. We passed hovels and ancient, crumbling, tenement apartments being bulldozed for another set of unaffordable summer homes for the Moroccan jetset North African yuppies.
As we drew close to the town center, I could make out the sound of Arabic coming from a megaphone. They were the February 20th movement, Morocco’s Arab Spring franchise. There wasn’t much of a crowd, but a counter protest seemed to be growing up around them. I noticed folks didn’t seem to be taking them too seriously — but a core of people had coalesced around the man and his banner. They hefted placards and took up a chant.
“They’re saying the gap between rich and poor is too great — that and they want better pay.” Souad translated.
I couldn’t quite get a feel for the protest; it didn’t seem to be gaining much momentum. I learned why a few weeks later in a coffee shop in the sea side city of Agadir.
I interviewed a young grad student named Yusuf. He told me, through my wife, that after the Kings referendum the February 20th movement had lost a lot of its support. He said that a lot of people felt that there was disunity in the group-and that while there were still pressing issues that needed to be addressed the sort of rallying that had led to Muhammad VI’s move towards more democracy was not being repeated.
Yusuf’s views were not universal. There were many folks I spoke with who felt Muhammad VI was taking the country to far too fast. A lot of folks seemed worried about instability. I suppose that’s reasonable when your county has been basically the same for six centuries.
Towards the end of my visit I fell into the company of Dr. Abdulraheem Khalladi. We rode around the country side and discussed politics and the fate of his country. As we passed through a small town we came across another crowd with a black banner.
“In Morocco we have freedom of speech. We can assemble. Now we are electing our own leaders.”
His tone carried more worry than hope. I asked him if he felt like his country was ready for this sort of change.
“I’m not sure. Too much democracy could be a bad thing. We need to grow…but slowly. Either way we have it now. I pray we use it correctly.”
Nicholas Pierce
Opinion Columnist